Full-aniline leather is the natural antithesis to the “painted” and “corrected grain” leather commonly used in shoemaking today. The tannage and qualities of this leather make it the most expensive of the leather variants – both in its cost and in its usage. Tanned with minimal pigment and intervention, the singular grain and markings of a full-aniline leather are deliberately left visible.
Indeed tanners refer to this leather as “naked” because it celebrates the leather in its natural state – its beauty and its blemishes. Full-aniline leather is also softer and more supple than the “painted” and “corrected grain” variants – both of which are hidden – and consequently hardened – beneath layers of paint, laminate and or an artificial grain emboss.
The expense of a full-aniline leather is two-fold: first, it can only be made from quality dyes and the best “wet blues” – an industry term for pre-tanned leather; second, its unique grain and markings demand more experience and time in a production environment.
Only the better shoemakers know how to work and finish full-aniline leather.
Indeed, most shoemakers are terrified by the grain and markings inherent to this material – preferring the price, uniformity and ease-of-use of its “painted” and or “corrected grain” alternatives.
EOS shoemakers accept these as variances as the “personality” of a leather – affectionally referring to full-aniline leather as “expressive.” The term “expressive” here refers to the leather developing a richer texture and colour when handled, sealed and or burnished in shoemaking – or what we term “patina.”Our shoemakers not only work with and around the “personality” of each leather; they can express this loudly – using heavy burnishes and waxes – or subtly – with gentle creams and polishing – depending on the shoe.
The patina to an EOS shoe is beautifully arbitrary – each is slightly unique from the other.
In the EOS lens this patina reflects the singular look, feel and personality of the woman who chooses to express herself with our shoes.